Simplicity 2255

Simp 2255-f

This round is Simplicity 2255, view D, except I added the ruffles on the button placket from view c. This is what Simplicity says about the pattern: Misses’ tunic or shirt with sleeve variations Easy to Sew pattern. I should add that it has bust darts, a sew-on button placket, and a collar stand. I made a size 18, straightened out the side seams to increase just a tad for waist ease. I have to share — over the last couple of years I have read people that use dental floss with a zig-zag stitch for gather but I had never tried it — that is until this shirt. So let me tell you — I can’t believe I waited this long to try that :D I love it! I hated doing the double line of stitches, at times would use the pins and do an ease in opposed to the double stitches — but running those stitches over a line of dental floss is a breeze, moves that along very fast.

2255-2

So do you like the fabric of this shirt? I am like a broken record — it is Cotton Lawn, yes again from Fashion Fabric Club. I like the colors, I have a pair of capris that will work great with this fabric — I’m hoping to work out some fit issues for some capris.

The shirt went together pretty straight forward, I didn’t find anything out of sorts in the directions. The fit I’m not sure of yet, I tried it on briefly but haven’t worn it for an extended period of time for the entire fit critique of it. One thing I noticed about the fit was the armholes and shoulders; it felt as if the shoulders were a little too long, and the armhole slightly too deep — but I’m not sure if part is because of the sleeve selection I used. I will add an edit to this page after I wear the shirt for the day to discuss more about the fit or any alterations I would make in future versions.

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Okay I wore this top in-between the time I wrote this and the time it posted, I like the top on but it does have a few issues. The item that bothered me the most is the armholes, I guess I have issues about armholes. This top like others that aren’t made specifically for sleevelesss are cut wrong. Even though this has a capped style sleeve the sleeve lends itself to sleeveless style. With a sleeveless style the shoulder length should be shorter than a sleeved style, and the armhole itself should be up higher and in tighter then a sleeved armhole. Therefore this top has problem when it is using same armhole for both sleeved and sleeveless styles — so to make this top in the style I have the shoulder length needs to be shortened, armhole shortened, and darted in slightly. The second thing that bothers me about the shirt is the neck, the collar on the neck just isn’t right. They have curved the placket, so the collar sits back but it sits too high too. All day the darn collar portion of the neck kept hitting me under the chin area, I realized that the collar needs to sit lower on the neckline. — so although I will wear this shirt I don’t think it will make the TNT patterns.

McCalls 6035

Mc 6035-f

This is what McCall’s says about the pattern: MISSES’ SHIRTS: Shirts have princess seams and button closure; shirt A has collar band and short sleeves with cuffs; shirts B, C, D have collar, collar band and below elbow length sleeves; shirt B has sleeves with cuffs; shirt C has sleeves with turn back cuffs with tabs; shirt D has sleeves with drawstrings; separate pattern pieces provided for A/B, C, D cup sizes.

I made View A, which is the black/white checkered shirt on the cover — I made a size 18 (again based on finished garment measurements), I also used a cup size C. I made an alteration to slightly increase the size of the sleeve — the bicep again — and adjusted the sleeve band. The top is made from — can you guess? 022YES a Cotton Lawn from Fashion Fabric Club! I just love the lightweight crispness of cotton lawn, especially in the stifling heat of summer! I absolutely loved this blue and white striped lawn too! it was so incredibly soft, softer than the other lawns I had purchased, not sure what caused the softness, unless it was strictly the weave of the fabric. I loved this fabric so much so it must of been part of Murphy’s Law that the top wouldn’t work! boo hoo hoo

There was nothing exciting about the pattern itself, I can’t remember anything about the directions that made it good or bad. The shirt went together without a problem, but the fit is the problem. The major fit problem is the sleeves, they are slightly too tight, but the band around the bottom is way too tight. I can get the top on but the movement is restricted by the tightness. I was disappointed that the waist / tummy area was also too tight, not button pulling tight but lack of ease tight.

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The sleeves came out so pretty! It saddens me that this top will end up at the Goodwill, but hopefully will find a home with someone that likes it. So what do you do with items that don’t fit after you’ve made them? Do you take them apart and make alterations? Do you give it away? I simply hate picking stitches, so often times will simply donate mine.

I’m not sure if I want to keep this pattern or trash it. I only pay $1 for most of my patterns, trying to catch them on sale, so that allows me to cut them, or trash them when they don’t work — without feeling in guilt. I really feel that I have so many blouse patterns now, several that are working in fit, that I’m not sure I want to work the fit issues with this one. I’ve saved the pattern to think it over —

Vogue 8747

Okay have you figured out that I’ve been on a run of blouses — and I am only part way through — there is a stack of them! So up for this segment in the Vogue 8747! This pattern has been made numerous times around the web, so let me add my small take on it :)

Vogue 8747-f

I made View B on the pattern envelope, which is the black one. It is sad that Vogue doesn’t have any actual pictures of this pattern on the envelope cover, because I do think it is worthy of actual pictures. I am also surprised looking at the Vogue website and the back of the pattern envelope that there is not a written description of this pattern either. So let me give it a try! The pattern has gathers at the bust line, within the button placket area, it has armhole princess seams on the front, and shoulder princess seams on the back; it can be made with the collar stand only or with a complete collar. The button placket has a slight curvature in the upper chest area. It is another Vogue Custom Fit, allowing you to pick the bust size based on a cup size.

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And here it is on my sewing assistant done another Cotton Lawn from Fashion Fabric Club, white with gray and black small flowers on it. I made this up with a size 18, cup size C. I didn’t leave a notation that I made it up with smaller seam allowances, so my assumption is I made it with the regular 5/8 inch seam allowances. I made no fit alterations, sewed this up straight out of the package.

So do I like it? Yes I do, I like the slight differences in the blouse that gives it a little something different, and the fit is pretty close! The changes I’ll make for it next time — well that darn tummy area again is plaguing me, so I’ll add to that; then there is those biceps again, so I’ll split and increase the sleeve size; then just because I like my tops a little longer I’ll add just a little length to the top. I do love the fit in the shoulders and bust!

This top is on my list of TNT patterns!

Vogue 8689

Vogue 8689-f

So this is what Vogue has to say about this pattern — has princess seams, collar and collar stand, front band, front and back yokes, narrow hem, flat-felled seams and button closing. I should add that the back yoke actually has a seam in the center, which provides perfect opportunity for bias designs. This pattern also has the custom fit cups sizes, based on the A, B, C, or D cup sizes. I again checked the sizing against the finished measurements, again used 3/8 inch seams on the width of the body to provide slightly more ease in the waist area — are you catching my full tummy drift :) .

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I made this in another Cotton Lawn from Fashion Fabric Club, a red, white, and blue (patriotic!) stripe, used View D — the far right, top. I really like the length of this top! I used a cup size C on the pattern, which is made a good fit. I really can’t complain much about the fit on this — okay except my 2 problem areas lately — the waist/tummy and the bicep! If I make it again I will add slightly more room than the 3/8 inch seams gave me, plus I will split and add some to the sleeve.

I should have ironed the shirt probably before I took a picture — but honestly I don’t iron my shirts after I make them — my life is casual, I just don’t worry about the wrinkles. You will also notice I didn’t worry about getting all matchy with the stripes, just don’t feel like it is that important. I read blogs where people struggle with the stripes matching, so I started looking at ready-to-wear — I was amazed that RTW really doesn’t pay attention to matchy stripes either — so why should I take the enjoyment from my sewing out by fighting the matchy issues of the stripes. I am not into couture sewing, I am into comfort and fit — and that is what you’ll find on my blog.

McCalls 6124

Mc 6124-f

I made View D, the very far top left view, but with the short sleeves from view B — okay that is the location on the actual pattern envelope — on the McCall’s picture it is the item on the bottom, center. I used a cotton lawn from Fashion Fabric Club of brown, burgundy, and white. Just a little info on the pattern, this is a armhole princess style top, with no back yoke, full collar with collar stand, and sew on button placket. I checked the finished garment measurements against my measurements, using my high bust but comparing my full bust also (in case I’d need a full bust adjustment) went with a size 18. I decided not to do any fitting adjustments, but did use only 3/8 inch seam allowances on girth of the body of the shirt, giving me the extra I would need in the waist area ease.

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My conclusion with this shirt — I love it! Okay there is one exception to the ‘love it’ — the length. Making the longer length looks fine with longer pants, but isn’t interchangeable with capris, the longer length just looks too long with the capris — and I love wearing the capris in the summer — and this was suppose to be a summer shirt — but it is making a great spring and fall shirt. The shirt pairs great with my longer pants and the brown sweater knit I made (Simplicity 2336 – blogged about here). I would like a little more ease in the sleeve around the bicep next time — yes I said next time — I like the shirt enough that it is going into the TNT patterns.

Vogue 8598

Vogue 8598

So this is the pattern cover for Vogue 8598, I made view A, the top right corner, sleeveless number in the dark purple color, in a size 20. After measuring the flat pattern I was aware that the waist area would be a little snug — I decided that using 3/8 inch seams versus the 5/8 inch seams around the mid-section would help me obtain just that little extra room, plus being a shoulder princess cut gave me some extra seams to gain the room I wanted. I like that Vogue gave us a pattern piece to make bias binding for the armhole finishing opposed it having us purchase pre-made stuff.

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I have actually worn the top a few times, today being one of those days! The fabric is a 100% Cotton Lawn, purchased from Fashion Fabrics Club last summer. Now the pros and cons of the top! The pros — the length is terrific without any adjustments, simply reducing the seam allowance around the mid-section gives me a comfortable amount of ease in the waist area, overall the blouse is comfortable. The cons — the armholes! The pattern uses the same armholes for the sleeveless top as it does for the tops with the sleeves, causing problems with the sleeveless blouse — so the shoulder length is a little too long for a sleeveless blouse, the armhold itself is slightly too deep also — giving you a bra peek-a-boo, and the armhole needs to be bought in slightly closer to the body.

In case you didn’t notice, my blouse doesn’t have a collar on the stand — I got carried away while I was sewing, quit reading directions, and my memory slipped! So I missed the collar, and decided to go without it — I hate picking stitches once I’ve serged all the seams.

In conclusion though I like the blouse enough that I think I’ll correct the armholes for the sleeveless style — my thought process is that I can borrow the armholes on Butterick 6085 to correct these on the Vogue — the Butterick armholes fit much tighter and closer — and I think it is worth the save!

Butterick 6085

Butterick 6085

Butterick 6085

This is a blouse I actually made last summer, but hadn’t blogged about! I made the blouse on the lower right corner (the purple one), which is view E if you actually have the pattern.

The fabric for the blouse was a cotton lawn I purchased from Fashion Fabrics Club. The pattern is simple, with a rolled collar (meaning no collar stand); view E had no waist darts front or back. Because of my fuller waist, I like to have my shirts a tad longer than the picture (and finished lengths listed), therefore I lengthened the shirt by 2 inches at the shorten/lengthen line.

Butterick 6085

Butterick 6085

The armholes were finished with store purchased bias binding. I finished all the seams with my serger, and used broadcloth for all interfacing. I made a size 18, basing the sizing off the finished measurements opposed to the suggested sizes based on my actual measurements.

I love this summer top! The armholes are a nice size, no bra peek-a-boo, nice hug to my body, and the length worked perfect for me! This top is comfortable while doing chores, or shopping — along with being cotton lawn is cool in the summer heat. I like this pattern so much it is already cut out for a another one with some new summer lawn fabric I purchased from Fashion Fabrics Club. I’ll be sure to update information when I make the next one!

McCalls 6399

McCalls 6399

McCalls 6399

Isn’t the picture of this top cute? I thought the pattern envelope had a picture of a top that is cute, offered something different with the gathers on the shoulder/sleeve area. The only issue I had with the top was the pattern called for a woven fabric — I know myself, I wouldn’t wear this as a woven I knew for myself it had to be a knit !! Since I was making it in a knit I changed a few items — I made it in a size 18, keeping the ease minimal, omitted any type of zipper. I reviewed the pattern, noticing that as a woven much of this top is cut on the bias, since I was making mine as knit I placed the items on grain, maintaining the stretch of my knit around my girth (width) of my body. Other than those items I very much tried to follow the pattern directions — I always like to follow their directions at least the first time, then I take in the items that could be changed or short cutted for other versions.

So now my critique, on a side note I actually like the top, but I had to make several changes before I did like it, and I would not on incorporate those but a few others if I made it again. So the things I did change — after I finished the top to make it wearable. The first thing I did was to raise the neckline to the gathered arm 1 inch, tapering to nothing at the arm edge. I can not say I blame this totally on the pattern of the shirt, but have noticed before that I seem to have a shorter area between the shoulder to the apex of the bust, with more a hollow area. But raising the neckline brought it in more, which means now bra strap showing. After I made that change I realized the neckline just didn’t fit right, wasn’t comfortable — then I realized the back neck area was high (it is on the pattern) but on my neck it just didn’t sit right, maybe I have a rounded area? I folded the neckline down and it fit better — so I made the alteration permanently changing the back neckline, lowering it to a more normal height. I’ve worn this top now a couple of times, and have another item I would address if I make it again. As another person mentioned on PatternReview I would eliminate the gathers on the lower sideseam. Those gathers cause too much pooling of the fabric in the area I already pool because of a fluffy tummy.

McCalls 6399

I haven’t decided if I want to make it again or not — it has changes I need to make — the neckline front & back, and the gathers. I would also change the way the neckline in back is even put together! I have to say the pattern directions were hard to understand for the sleeves & neckline area. The pattern directions had lots of information on making fitting alterations, but could have spent a little more time with pictures and explanations of how the pieces are to fit. But the top is comfortable, and is slightly different which adds interest overall. I’ve kept the pattern with my notes — so maybe again —

Over & Over Again —-

Tell me do you have a pattern that finds its way onto your cutting table over and over again? I have a top pattern that I have made numerous times, and of course I made it again —

The pattern in Simplicity 2344 — View A —

Pattern Envelope Simplicity 2344

Simplicity 2344

I blogged about it here and I blogged about it here — I made it a 3rd time, but changed the sleeves to simple long sleeves (no full/gathered sleeve), and also changed up the neckline — but alas don’t have a picture right now of number 3.

Well I made it a 4th time here — in a cotton knit I picked up from Fabric.Com 027

And that still wasn’t enough because I just love how this top fits, how comfortable it is, etc. I like the length of the top, the depth of the neckline is about perfect for me, and the ease/fit is great — I was just sure this would make a great summer top too! So here it is with short/cap sleeves —-

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I just love this lime green, so pretty! This is some more of the Hobby Lobby cotton knit I got, it is light weight just wonderful with this warmer weather we’re getting. So is the 5th time enough of this top? I don’t know — I wore the top today — and kept thinking about other ways I could make it again!

Over the last couple of days I’ve trimmed up new patterns, washed up fabric, and match up patterns to fabric. I did get a few things cut out too !! A new shirt for my darling husband, trying Simplicity 9469, because he needs some new dress shirts; I am prepping Kwik Sew 3792 for a few summer shirts for him. I got a couple cut out for me too, Simplicity 2365, and Vogue 8689 — this Vogue I actually made before, will blog about it soon! Tomorrow will be another day of sewing!

Simplicity 2774 — Plus This & That

Simp 2774-f

Used some more of my Hobby Lobby knit fabric to try this pattern out — I was curious about view F. I decided on a size 22, giving me some ease, versus the Knit negative ease. I have found with my excess weight I feel uncomfortable with clothing that sticks to me, or clings in any way. It is hard to determine how much is enough and how much is too much for my comfort level though. It has been interesting to determine, and learn what I like as a heavier person.

Simplicity 2774 frong

So there is the front view — items on the fit — the bust is low for me, so the gathers are slightly below where they should be — the gathers on the center front cause too much of a puff of fabric, this would be better if it was gathered or distributed in a larger area of the front. Once you get past those two items it fits nicely and will be a comfortable top. I’m just not sure how much I’m lovin’ the dots — when I seen the fabric I loved it — but now in a top and on me it seems a little over the top.

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This up close picture is to show the neckline area, the pattern called for interfacing along the neckline area — but I hate interfacing in my knits — so I used broadcloth. I wasn’t sure if the interfacing was necessary in the top but can say that offers more support in the neckline and the way they designed it. Some areas I didn’t interface or use facing pieces, the keyhole area, I simply flipped back the fabric and sewed it down.

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I wanted to show the back, the pattern has seams down the center back of the bodice and the back skirt. These seams could allow for sway back adjustments, but I think mostly they simply ended up that way because of fabric usage; there would have been an extreme amount of wasted fabric if they had been placed on the fold.

My overall conclusion on the top is an ‘okay’ — I’ll wear the top, probably even to work, but not sure it will make the favorite list — and know it won’t be a make again shirt.

On another note — I like to sew by cutting out several items at a time, sometimes as many as a dozen! I simply find I’m more productive if I do items in phases — I go through the patterns, prep each one I plan on using, checking measurements, making alterations, etc —- then I cut all the items out — then I can spend weeks sewing!! One item after another — I love the sewing part, not so much the alterations and cutting out. So — I have finished my last stack of items (all the Hobby Lobby knits I bought) and I will finish posting all my items here! While I’m doing that you might hear about the items I am also cutting out. I also did some sewing last summer that I didn’t get posted so I’ll be adding them — because they are some great top patterns that are still being sold this summer.

So keep checking back !! And I’ll keep writing!!

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Edited: May 16, 2013

I think there is something to say about putting an item in the closet and re-thinking the item. I decided to wear this top to work, see how it feels, in the end I do like this top! Now would I make changes still, yes I would — the bust line is a little too low (who thunk with a 50 year old body), I would still re-do the gathering so it isn’t directly over the fullest part of my tummy, but spread out across the lower midriff area — and on the final note I would size it down a little — but the fabric is fun, the top is comfortable and overall still fits me better than ready-to-wear!